CunningWiki - New pages [en]

Tape and Reel

2013-06-09T02:51:28Z

Dye: /* Tape and Reel */

==Tape and Reel==
'''Standards''' all in millimeters

<tab class=wikitable sep=comma head=top>
Tape Widths,Component Pitches,Hole Pitches,Reel Diameters
8,4,4,180
12,8,,330
16,12,,
24,16,,
</tab>

Hard Shell Initial setup

2013-04-11T02:01:36Z

Ilya:

There are several things you need to configure when you first get your Hard Shell. These only need to be configured once.

== 1. Configure the wireless router ==

Connect power to the router and wait for it to turn on. It takes about 15 seconds for the LEDs light to come up.

After about a minute the router will create a wireless network called "PHS-***", where *** are some random numbers and/or letters. Use your laptop to connect to it. You can't use iPad for this step as it will not work. A desktop is fine too if it can connect to wifi networks.

Open a web browser and go to the address http://192.168.0.1

This is the router configuration page. Here it will ask you for the Admin password. The password is the last 6 characters of the router's MAC address. There is a sticker on the router that says what it is.
[[File:PHS300_admin_password.jpg|300px|none]]

Once you log in you want to make sure that the settings "Require User Login" and "Enable Bounce Pages" are disabled. To find these settings click on the "TOOLS" tab.
[[File:PHS300_disable_bounce_pages.jpg|300px|none]]
[[File:PHS300_disable_user_logon.jpg|300px|none]]

== 2. Configure the Eye-Fi card ==

Insert the Eye-Fi card into the Eye-Fi card reader and plug the reader into your computer.
A program will auto start and it will guide you to:
*Install the Eye-Fi Center.
*Create a Eye-Fi account.
*Connect Eye-Fi card to a wireless router

You need to do all of these steps. When you get to the step where you select which wireless network the Eye-Fi card should connect to, be sure to select the router you just configured. After this point, Eye-Fi Center program will pause for about a minute. After the wait it will accept your router selection.

== 3. Configure the iPad ==

On your iPad, install the app called "Shutter Snitch". Search for it in the app store.

Wait for Shutter Snitch to install and then open it. Then press "Options" located at the top left corner, followed by "Settings".
[[File:Ss_options_settings.jpg|300px|none]]

Find where it says "Wi-Fi Cards" and slide the option "Eye-Fi transfers" from off to on. Press on "Done" to exit out of settings.
[[File:Ss_enable_eyefi_transfers.jpg|300px|none]]

Now press the "Options" button again. This time click on "Setup Guide".
[[File:Ss_options_setup_guide.jpg|300px|none]]

On the screen that pops up press "Eye-Fi card".
[[File:Ss_press_eyefi_card.jpg|300px|none]]

On the next screen enter your Eye-Fi username and password (that you just recently created). Then slide the switch from off to on to allow receiving from your Eye-Fi Card.
[[File:Ss_eyefi_login.jpg|300px|none]]

Shutter Snitch is now configured, which completes the Hard Shell initial setup. All that is left to do is to connect your iPad to the Hard Shell's wifi router.

Tip: Your iPad is able to remember many wifi connections at the same time and if it see more than one network it is free to jump between them back and forth as it feels like it. When working on location you don't want the iPad to randomly disconnect from the Hard Shell's router. Therefor if there any other networks in the area that your iPad knows about you should tell your iPad to forget about them. This will ensure that the iPad stays connected to the Hard Shell's router for the duration of the whole event.

== Test it out ==

Lets verify that now when you camera takes a picture it appears on the iPad. Once your iPad is connected to the mobile router launch Shutter Snitch again. From there create a new collection. Insert the Eye-Fi card into your camera and take a picture. The picture should appear shortly on the iPad screen.

Dual Servo Controller

2013-02-18T23:13:59Z

Ilya: changed "newstore" to "store"

[[File:Tiny_Servo_Driver_with_quarter.jpg|400px|none]]

'''Main details about the Dual Servo Controller'''
*[http://store.cunningturtle.com/collections/frontpage/products/dual-servo-controller-kit Store page]

'''Assembly instructions'''
*[[Dual_Servo_Controller_Tool_Checklist | The tools you are going to need]]
*[[Dual_Servo_Controller_Bill_of_Materials|The Bill of Materials]]
*[[Dual_Servo_Controller_Assembly_Instructions | The step by step assembly instructions]]

'''Usage instructions'''
*[[Dual_Servo_Controller_Usage | Use Dual Servo Controller to manually control two servos]]

'''Source Files'''
*The circuit board design was done with Eagle. [http://www.cunningturtle.com/specs/62_eagle.zip Download the design files.]
*The schematic is also available: [http://www.cunningturtle.com/specs/62_sch.png Dual Servo Controller Schematic]
*[http://www.cunningturtle.com/specs/62_dual_servo_controller_firmware_source_code.zip Firmware source code]

Upload firmware to the Radio Controlled Stepper

2013-02-07T01:47:38Z

Ilya:

This tutorial will show you how to load firmware on to the Radio Controlled stepper.

There a couple settings you can change on the RC Stepper.
For example, when you are controlling a stepper motor using the RC stepper and you move the joystick on your remote control from left to the right the stepper motor will turn exactly 360 degrees. But what if you want to it turn 720 degrees instead. By tweaking and uploading the firmware you can do that. In this tutorial I'll walk you through doing just that.

There are a few assumptions I make on this page: First, I assume you are using a computer that is running windows. Second, you want to spend as little money as possible and not have to buy additional tools. And lastly, you have an Arduino laying around.

For this tutorial, you'll need:
*Arduino Uno or Duemilanove (w/ an ATmega328, not an older board with an ATmega168)
*a 10 uF capacitor (e.g. from Sparkfun or from Digi-Key)
*jumper wires

'''[Step 1] Install winavr'''

Here is the direct download link:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/winavr/files/latest/download
When you are installing it, make sure the install path you specify doesn't have any spaces in it. That means don't install it in into your "Program Files" folder. The programs that come with WinAVR have trouble running when install in a directory that has spaces in it. A good place to put it in is "C:\WinAVR"

'''[Step 2] Download the Radio Controlled Stepper source code'''

[http://www.cunningturtle.com/specs/60_rcStepper_firmware_source_code.zip Link to the source code]. After you download it, unzip it someplace you can keep track of. For this tutorial I'm going to place my source code into the folder "C:\rcStepper\".

'''[Step 3] Make your changes to the config file'''

Once you unzip the source code, look for the file named "config.h". This file will have the settings you can configure. Open it up and poke around inside. Even though the extension of this file is ".h" you can still open it in plain ol' notepad. Each setting in the file has a short description next to it that explains what it does. For this example I scroll down until I see "#define ABSOLUTE_POSITION_RANGE_IN_DEGREES" and I change the number from 360 to 720. This will get me double the rotational range. Once I make my change I save the file.
[[File:Config.h_opened_in_notepad.png|400px|none]]

'''[Step 4] Programming the Arduino to act as a Programmer'''

Now we need to make the Arduino board into a programmer so that it will be able to program other microcontrollers. This is very simple; with the Arduino IDE open, open the ArduinoISP sketch by going to File->Examples->ArduinoISP. This sketch will make the Arduino act as an ISP programmer. Select your board in the Tools menu, and make sure the correct COM port is selected (also, copy down or make a mental note of the COM port. It will be needed in step 6). Then just upload the sketch to the Arduino.
[[File:ArduinoIspSketch.png|400px|none]]

'''[Step 5] Connect the Arduino to the RC stepper'''

Connect the Arduino board to the RC stepper as shown in the following diagram. Also connect a 10 uF capacitor between reset and ground on the Arduino board as shown in the diagram (the stripe on the capacitor that’s marked with a negative sign (-) should go to ground). The capacitor prevents the Arduino board from resetting (which starts the bootloader), thus ensuring that the Arduino IDE talks to the ArduinoISP (not the bootloader) during the upload of sketches. (The capacitor is needed if you’re using an Arduino Uno, and might also be necessary for an Arduino Duemilanove.)
[[File:Program_rc_stepper_with_arduino.png|400px|none]]

'''[Step 6] Compile and program the firmware'''

Open up the folder with the RC stepper firmware and locate the file called "CompileAndProgram.bat". Be careful not to double click on this file just yet, we have to edit it first. Open up notepad and drag this file into it. Even though the file ends in ".bat" it is really just a text file. Inside it find where it says "COM1" and change it to the COM port from step 4. Save the file once you make your change. Now double click on the file to run it. This file is a script that will compile the firmware and program it on to the RC stepper.
[[File:CompileAndProgram.bat_opened_in_notepad.png|400px|none]]

'''[Optional Step 7] Burn the fuses'''

You need to do this step if you are building your own RC stepper from scratch. If you purchased your RC Stepper from us then the fuses are already burned in for you and you should skip this step.

To burn the fuses, look in the RC stepper firmware folder and open the file called "burnFuses.bat". Just like in the previous step you need to edit this file. Find where it says "COM1" and replace it with the COM port from step 4. Once you save your change double click on the file and it will burn the fuses for you.

'''Acknowledgements'''

Parts of this tutorial are adapted from High-low tech's excellent tutorial on how to use the [http://hlt.media.mit.edu/?p=1706 Arduino board as an ATtiny programmer]. As well as Sparkfun's tutorial on [http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/200 Using an Arduino to Program an AVR].

Radio Controlled Stepper upload firmware

2013-02-06T03:00:07Z

Ilya: Replaced content with " This page moved. Click here to go to the new location. "

[[ Upload firmware to the Radio Controlled Stepper | This page moved. Click here to go to the new location. ]]

Molding Supplies

2012-12-17T16:09:05Z

Dye: Created page with "Mold Making is a Very Fun Process. Attached is a table of materials we have experienced or studied. It is in no way complete. Sometimes '''Plaster''' '''Silicon''' '''Resin''..."

Mold Making is a Very Fun Process. Attached is a table of materials we have experienced or studied. It is in no way complete. Sometimes

'''Plaster'''

'''Silicon'''

'''Resin'''

'''Clay'''

'''Release Agents'''

<tab class=wikitable sep=comma head=top>
Material Type, Cost/ounce, Name, Vender, Comments
Silicon, ???, Pinkysil, Skin safe, Platnium Based Pink, fairly high melting point
Plaster, ???, ??, Skin safe, Heat resistant
Release Agent, Cheap, Petroleum Jelly, Everywhere, Easy to obtain, very low cost

</tab>

Hard Shell Compatibility

2012-12-13T02:03:55Z

Ilya:

'''This is the list of cameras that are known to work with the Hard Shell.'''

There might be others that are not on this list. Any camera that works with the Eye-Fi card, and has a sync port, will be compatible with the Hard Shell.

{| {{table}}
| [[Image:CL-CB1.jpg|100px]] || [[Image:CL-DC0.jpg|100px]] || [[Image:CL-DC1.jpg|100px]] || [[Image:CL-DC2.jpg|100px]]
|-
| CL-CB1 || CL-DC0 || CL-DC1 || CL-DC2
|-
| [[Image:CL-E3.jpg|100px]] || [[Image:CL-RS1.jpg|100px]] || [[Image:CL-S1.jpg|100px]] || [[Image:CL-UC1.jpg|100px]]
|-
| CL-E3 || CL-RS1 || CL-S1 || CL-UC1
|}

{| {{table}}
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Manufacture'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Camera'''
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Cable'''
|-
| Canon||EOS 60D||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||EOS 60Da||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||EOS Rebel T1i / 500D||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||EOS Rebel T2i / 550D / Kiss X4||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||EOS Rebel T3 / 1100D / Kiss X50 ||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||EOS Rebel T3i / 600D / Kiss X5||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||EOS Rebel T4i / 650D / Kiss X6i ||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||EOS Rebel XS / 1000D / Kiss F ||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||EOS Rebel XSi / 450D / Kiss X2 ||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||EOS Kiss X3||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||Powershot G1 X ||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||Powershot G10 ||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||Powershot G11 ||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||Powershot G12 ||CL-E3
|-
| Canon||EOS 1D Mark II||CL-N3
|-
| Canon||EOS 1D Mark II N||CL-N3
|-
| Canon||EOS 1D Mark III ||CL-N3
|-
| Canon||EOS 1D Mark IV||CL-N3
|-
| Canon||EOS 1Ds MARK II ||CL-N3
|-
| Canon||EOS 1Ds Mark III||CL-N3
|-
| Canon||EOS 5D Mark III||CL-N3
|-
| Fujifilm||FinePix X-S1||CL-DC0
|-
| Leica||V-LUX 1||CL-RS1
|-
| Leica||V-LUX 2||CL-RS1
|-
| Leica||V-LUX 3||CL-RS1
|-
| Nikon||D300S||CL-DC0
|-
| Nikon||D800||CL-DC0
|-
| Nikon||D800 E||CL-DC0
|-
| Nikon||D80||CL-DC1
|-
| Nikon||D3100||CL-DC2
|-
| Nikon||D3200||CL-DC2
|-
| Nikon||D5000||CL-DC2
|-
| Nikon||D5100||CL-DC2
|-
| Nikon||D7000||CL-DC2
|-
| Nikon||D7100||CL-DC2
|-
| Nikon||D90||CL-DC2
|-
| Olympus||E-5||CL-CB1
|-
| Olympus||PEN E-P1 ||CL-UC1
|-
| Olympus||PEN E-P2 ||CL-UC1
|-
| Olympus||PEN E-P3 ||CL-UC1
|-
| Olympus||PEN E-PL2||CL-UC1
|-
| Olympus||PEN E-PL3||CL-UC1
|-
| Olympus||PEN E-PM1||CL-UC1
|-
| Olympus||XZ-1||CL-UC1
|-
| Panasonic||LUMIX DMC-FZ100||CL-RS1
|-
| Panasonic||LUMIX DMC-FZ150||CL-RS1
|-
| Panasonic||LUMIX DMC-FZ50 ||CL-RS1
|-
| Panasonic||LUMIX DMC-G1||CL-RS1
|-
| Panasonic||LUMIX DMC-G10||CL-RS1
|-
| Panasonic||LUMIX DMC-G2||CL-RS1
|-
| Panasonic||LUMIX DMC-G3||CL-RS1
|-
| Panasonic||LUMIX DMC-GF1||CL-RS1
|-
| Panasonic||LUMIX DMC-GF3||CL-RS1
|-
| Panasonic||LUMIX DMC-GH2||CL-RS1
|-
| Panasonic||LUMIX DMC-GX1||CL-RS1
|-
| Panasonic||LUMIX DMC-L10||CL-RS1
|-
| Panasonic||LUMIX DMC-TS2||CL-RS1
|-
| Pentax||645D||CL-E3
|-
| Pentax||K-5||CL-E3
|-
| Pentax||K-7||CL-E3
|-
| Pentax||K100D||CL-E3
|-
| Pentax||K200D||CL-E3
|-
| Samsung||NX-10||CL-E3
|-
| Samsung||NX-100||CL-E3
|-
| Sony||a550||CL-S1
|-
|
|}